What Does a Bearded Dragon Need in a Starter Kit?

The Enclosure: Size for the Adult

Bearded dragons reach 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) within their first year or two. ReptiFiles recommends at least 6 × 2 × 2 feet (180 × 60 × 60 cm) for one adult, front-opening with a mesh top, and larger is better. The small glass tanks sold in many kits are outgrown within months.

Keep one dragon per enclosure. Two dragons together can fight and injure each other, and a smaller one may be kept off the basking spot without obvious fights.

UVB: Why a Strong Tube Beats a Coil Bulb

Bearded dragons are desert baskers and need strong UVB to use calcium properly. A long T5 high-output UVB tube with a reflector, running across much of the enclosure on the warm side, is the modern standard. ReptiFiles suggests aiming for a UV index of about 4.0–4.5 at the basking spot. Small compact coil bulbs often supplied in kits give too little UVB over too small an area. Replace tubes on the maker's schedule, because output fades before the light looks dimmer. See UVB lighting explained.

Heat and the Thermostat Every Kit Skips

• Basking surface: 105–115°F (40–46°C), measured on the stone with an infrared thermometer.
• Cool zone: 70–85°F (21–29°C), so the dragon can cool down.
• Night: lights off. Most homes are warm enough; add a non-light heat source on a thermostat only if your room gets very cold.

A halogen heat lamp over a flat stone or slate makes a good basking spot. Control it with a dimmer or dimming thermostat so it can't overheat. These are typical ranges from keeper care sheets; check with your vet or a specialist keeper for your own setup.

Monitoring: Gauges in the Right Places

Use a digital thermometer with probes (one on the cool side), a digital hygrometer for humidity of about 30–60%, and an infrared thermometer for the basking surface. Stick-on dial gauges are often wrong by several degrees.

Diet by Age

Bearded dragons eat both insects and plants, and the balance shifts with age:

• Hatchlings (0–6 months): insects twice a day, greens daily.
• Juveniles (6–12 months): insects once a day, greens daily.
• Adults (over 12 months): insects two or three times a week, greens every day. Most of an adult's diet should be vegetables.

Good insects include crickets, roaches and black soldier fly larvae; dust them with a reptile calcium powder. Leafy greens such as collard greens, arugula (rocket) and cactus pads make a good base. A shallow water dish and a light misting once or twice a week help with hydration.

Health: Preventive Care

Find a vet who treats reptiles before you buy, and book a check-up after your dragon settles. Weigh monthly. Wash your hands after handling your dragon or anything in its enclosure; reptiles can carry salmonella without looking ill.