Choosing Hens: Hybrids, Pure Breeds, Bantams or Rescue Hens
Hybrids: The Easy Layers
Hybrid hens are crosses bred to lay well, especially in their first couple of years. They're usually calm and friendly, widely sold at point of lay (just about to start laying), and a popular first choice. Their laying tends to drop off after the first few years, but they stay good company.
Many hybrids are sex-linked: chicks can be sexed by color at hatch, so you're much less likely to end up with a surprise cockerel.
Pure Breeds: Character and Variety
Pure breeds come in a huge range of sizes, colors and personalities. Most lay fewer eggs than hybrids, and keepers often find that some keep laying steadily for longer. A few popular examples:
- Orpingtons and Sussex: large, calm and family-friendly.
- Wyandottes and Brahmas: handsome and cold-hardy; Brahmas are very large with feathered feet.
- Marans and Araucanas: chosen for dark brown or blue-green eggs.
- Leghorns: good layers, but flighty and less keen on handling.
- Silkies and Polish: ornamental, gentle and quirky; Silkies go broody often.
Breeds with feathered feet or big crests need dry ground and extra care in wet weather.
Bantams and Small Spaces
Bantams are small versions of large breeds, or naturally small breeds such as Pekin bantams. They eat less, need less space and lay smaller eggs. They can fly better than heavy breeds, so a covered run helps. Mixing bantams with large fowl can work, but watch that the small birds aren't bullied.
Climate, Family and Space
- Cold winters: breeds with small combs and dense feathers cope better.
- Hot summers: lighter, active breeds with large combs often handle heat better; every hen needs shade and water.
- Children: calm, heavy breeds and many hybrids tolerate gentle handling best.
- Mixing ages and breeds: introduce newcomers slowly, ideally in groups of two or more, with a period behind a mesh divider.
Getting Ready for Your Hens
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A good breed book helps you narrow down the choice. Whatever you pick, a secure coop, a carry box for bringing birds home, layer pellets and a mesh divider for introducing new birds cover the first weeks.
Where to Buy Healthy Birds
Buy from a reputable breeder, hatchery or rehoming charity that lets you see where the birds are kept. Healthy birds are alert, active and clean around the vent, eyes and nostrils. Ask about vaccinations, and keep new birds apart from any existing flock for a couple of weeks. Our page on rehoming ex-commercial hens covers the rescue route.
Vaccines, worming and mite treatments: see your vet or a pet supply store with trained staff. Ask the seller what vaccines the birds have had, and ask your vet what your flock needs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Questions people ask when choosing hens.
Which hens are best for beginners?
Hybrids at point of lay are a popular first choice: they're usually friendly, lay well and skip the chick stage. Calm pure breeds such as Orpingtons and Sussex are good too.
Do pure breeds lay fewer eggs than hybrids?
Most do, especially in the first couple of years, but many keepers find some pure breeds keep laying for longer.
Are bantams good for small gardens?
Yes. They eat less and need less space, though they fly better than heavy breeds, so a covered run helps.
Which hens are best with children?
Calm, heavy breeds and many hybrids are the most tolerant of gentle handling. Supervise young children and teach them to hold hens properly.
Can I mix different breeds?
Yes, with care. Introduce newcomers slowly behind a divider, and watch that small or crested birds aren't bullied.
Should I get chicks or grown hens?
Grown hens at point of lay are easier and avoid surprise cockerels. Chicks are fun but need a brooder and several weeks of care.
Related Reading
- Starting a backyard flock: the rules and the setup.
- Rehoming ex-commercial hens: a retirement for working layers.
- Chickens in winter: breeds that cope with cold.
Register with a vet who sees poultry before your hens come home, and keep new birds apart until you're sure they're healthy.