How Do You Move Safely With Dogs and Cats?

Start carrier or crate practice weeks before the move, update vet records and microchip details before the van arrives, keep pets shut in a quiet room on moving day, and pack a first-72-hours kit that travels with you. Early preparation matters far more than anything you do on the day itself.

Three Phases

  1. Before the move. Carrier or crate practice, vet records, microchip and tag details, and a labeled first-72-hours kit.
  2. Moving day. Pets shut away from open doors, with food, water and familiar bedding traveling in the car with you.
  3. The first 72 hours. One quiet room with familiar smells before the run of the house, and routines kept steady.

Carrier and Crate Practice Starts Weeks Early

A pet that already sees its crate or carrier as a comfy, ordinary place has a big advantage on moving day: the box becomes a portable piece of the old home.

Start weeks ahead with short sessions, treats and meals inside, door open at first. For cats, a carrier left out all the time as a bed works far better than one that only appears for vet trips. Neither species should meet the box for the first time on moving day.

Records and Microchip Details

Medicines, vaccinations and parasite prevention when you change vets: see your vet or a pet supply store with trained staff. Ask your current vet for enough of any regular medicine to cover the move.

Moving to another country is a much bigger job, with its own health and paperwork rules that differ by country; start months ahead and check with the government of the country you are moving to.

Moving Day Itself

Moving day is usually the most stressful part: strangers in the house, open doors and strange noises. The biggest risk is a frightened pet getting out.

A Moving-Day Kit

Each button opens a search in your own country's Amazon store. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

A carrier or crate that already feels safe, travel bowls, a tag with your new details and a calming aid you have tried at home cover most of it. Add a copy of the vet records and the new address with a local emergency vet's number. Pack the kit separately so it never ends up buried in a box.

The First 72 Hours in the New Home

Set up one room with familiar bedding, the litter box or crate, food and water before letting a pet explore. A whole new building at once is a lot; one room is manageable.

Keep feeding, walks and bedtime as normal as you can. Cats often hide more than usual for a while, which is ordinary. Keep cats indoors for the first weeks so they don't try to head back to the old home. A pet that won't settle after several days, refuses food or seems unwell needs a call to your vet.

Frequently Asked Questions

What owners ask when planning a move.

Should I sedate my pet for a long move?

Don't give anything without talking to your vet first. Sedation can affect breathing, temperature and balance, which is risky in a vehicle, so your vet will weigh up whether it is right for your pet.

How early should carrier practice start?

Several weeks ahead, so short, positive sessions can build real comfort. A pet that naps in its carrier by choice is ready.

Should I find a new vet before or after the move?

Before, if you can. Having records transferred in advance means the new practice can see your pet quickly if something comes up.

Can my pet ride in the moving van?

No. Vans aren't climate controlled and your pet needs to be with people it knows. Even a short trip in a hot or cold van can be dangerous.

How long until a pet feels at home?

Many settle within a couple of weeks, though anxious cats can take longer. Eating, sleeping and relaxing in the space are better guides than the calendar.

Should I change food or routines during the move?

No. Keep everything the same so there is one less change to cope with, and save any planned changes until you have settled in.

A pet that refuses food for more than a day or two, won't settle at all, or seems unwell after a move needs a vet's view, not just more time.

Updated October 2026 · General information, not veterinary advice.