Gouramis: Gentle Air-Breathers for Planted Tanks

Air-Breathing Fish With Character

Gouramis and paradise fish are anabantids from Asia. They have a labyrinth organ that lets them breathe air at the surface, which OATA stresses doesn't mean they need any less care. They range from the tiny sparkling gourami, about 1.6 inches (4 cm), to the giant gourami at up to 28 inches (70 cm), which needs a tank of at least about 106 gallons (400 liters).

For most community tanks, honey and dwarf gouramis are the usual choices. Delicate species such as chocolate and sparkling gouramis need calmer, specialist setups.

Groups and Sexes

OATA suggests keeping at least three together, two females to each male, to spread out the male's attention. Males usually have brighter colors and longer fins. Gouramis also have long, feeler-like pelvic fins they use to sense their surroundings.

Paradise fish (Macropodus opercularis) grow to about 4 inches (10 cm) and can be semi-aggressive, so OATA says they are usually best kept on their own.

Tank and Water

OATA recommends at least about 12 gallons (45 liters) for a small group of small gouramis and about 26 gallons (100 liters) for larger gouramis and paradise fish, with more room for more groups.

• Temperature: about 68–82°F (20–28°C).
• Air gap: leave a gap between the water and the lid so they can gulp air.
• Plants: lots of cover, ideally live plants and floating plants, for shy species.
• Gentle flow and no sharp decor that could tear long fins.
• Water: pH about 6.0–8.0, soft to medium hardness.

Feeding

Gouramis are omnivores. OATA suggests a good-quality flake, granule or pellet, with small live or frozen foods such as daphnia and bloodworm. Feed what they eat in a few minutes once a day.

Tank Mates

Choose calm fish of a similar size: rasboras, peaceful tetras, corydoras and loaches. Avoid fin-nippers, which target long pelvic fins, and fish small enough to be eaten. Don't keep a gourami with a betta; they are close relatives and may fight.

Keeping Them Healthy

Most problems in small fish start with water quality. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate weekly, change about a quarter of the water each week with conditioned tap water, and rinse filter media in old tank water, never under the tap. Quarantine new fish if you can, and add them a few at a time so the filter keeps up.

Watch your fish every day at feeding time. Changes in swimming, color, breathing or hiding are early signs that something is wrong, so test the water first.

For fish treatments or medicines: see your vet or a pet supply store with trained staff. An aquatics store with trained staff, or a vet who treats fish, can help you work out what's wrong before you add anything to the tank.